Adventures in fitting

Earlier in the year, I did a sewing class where we made a pair of casual-fit, elastic-waist trousers. The pattern was Vogue 8584.

To take account of my hip measurement (which is a few sizes larger than my waist), I needed to cut out the size 12 pattern – and then didn't reduce the waist at all for the mock-up (because, to quote my sewing teacher, "it'll be funny ").

So I made the mock-up and took it to class where the teacher – while I was wearing it – demonstrated how to take a lot out of a waistband. However, when I went to get changed I found I couldn't take the trousers off. We tried letting out the waist reduction at centre front and centre back and I still couldn't get them over my hips. I always had difficulty buying trousers but I thought the problem was with the product; turns out I'm a shape that is physically incapable of wearing some kinds of trousers! #notevengoingtotrybuyingpantsagain

I made the waist high so that I would have a pattern that worked for any height of waist in the future.

Our solution was to make up the pattern in knit fabric. These fit much better. I'm still not about to become a pants wearer with this pattern – I don't love how they hang from my hips – but at least I have a pattern that fits should I need one.

I also did a course that involved making a panel-lined shirt (ie the princess seams stop at the shoulder seam not the sleeve seam). This is a seam-style I really like and I have adapted patterns to be like this in the past with varying degrees of success.

The shirt pattern was Butterick 5538, including (American) sizes 3-22. My measurements were too small for the pattern’s range. (This confuses me – I'm small but not remarkably so. I know women much smaller than me – if I am too small for commercial pattern sizes what's it like for them?) So I cut the size 3 and took it in a lot (and then let it out a bit in the hips). Other changes included a minor rounded back adjustment and a significant broad shoulder adjustment.

The class finished with a mock-up (rather than a final garment) so I set about making my own shirt at home. I promptly changed my mind about which collar and sleeves I wanted so I had to adapt the pattern some more and then made it up. The first try had poor arm movement and was tight across the shoulders but I looked at where the creases were and made an adjustment to the sleeve and managed to fix it all by myself!

I actually looked at the pattern instructions when sewing it up – which was useful as I would have missed the facing otherwise. I edged the facing with a Hong Kong finish but used ribbon rather than binding because it was 11 o'clock at night and I didn't want to wait till morning to get to the shops for proper binding. I went slightly overboard with the buttons. I’ve had problems with commercial shirts having buttons too far apart so wanted to avoid that but overcompensated. (I blame historical sewing – corset eyelets do need to be close together.)

I originally started sewing lessons to improve my sewing technique and learn some pattern making so I could make better quality costumes. It hadn't occurred to me to make my own everyday clothes purely for the sake of having them fit. The most significant thing I've learned is the fitting techniques (and that I am a weird shape). A nice shape, but difficult to buy for and sometimes, it seems, impossible to make for.