Hubris Rewarded

I would give you a playlist to go with reading about this dress, but some of the most important songs from my downloaded playlist aren’t on Spotify, so instead I recommend you listen to this album.

My first thought when making this outfit was that it was time to go back and prove to the Canberra Show that, even though I hadn't been around for a while, I could waltz back and take Champion of Sewing any time I felt like it. Which might be just slightly overconfident, but then I did win, so turns out I was right. Though I must say, the competition this year so strong that I might have even coped with a second place.

Flippantly deciding on such a goal forced me to always do everything the best I could and cut no corners. Creating this outfit was very much an exercise in using all the skills and techniques I've learned over many years. I put a lot of thought into selecting the appropriate seam finishes and interfacing, and hand-stitching as much as possible.

Come on a tour.

Underdress
The underdress is nearly all French seams and it has Hong Kong binding where the neckline is folded over. I used clear elastic as the elastic channel is see-through.

My bodice fabric was pre-decorated, so step one was to remove the bobbles in the seam allowance area. I used the smash-it-with-a-hammer method for the ones that were particularly difficult but that tended to damage the fabric, so most of the removal was done by very careful pliering. 

You have to squish the silver bit slightly before you can pull them apart.

I originally had lacing loops for closure but they did not line up or sit neatly or be at all discreet so I unpicked them and inserted an invisible zip by hand. It is the most beautiful zip I have ever applied. I am now conflicted as to whether handsewing zips needs to become a habit.

Look at that seam matching.

To get the braid to sit in the middle of the waistband without one edge overstretching the other, I ended up setting up two needles and sewing both sides at the same time.

I had to start by tucking the ends of the braid from the front to the back – reversing a very questionable decision on the manufacturer’s part.

Jacket
The jacket is pretty simple, compared to the rest of the outfit. It has French seams and a sew-in interfaced waistband. On this and the overdress I decided to finish the lacing ends with beads. 

Overdress
I cannot stress enough that everything I have talked about so far is not visible while wearing the outfit. I was having great time being unnecessarily extravagant.

The foundation of the overdress is a corset attached to dress along the top and back. The top edge is bound with the matte side of the underdress fabric and hand beaded with a row of moonstones.    

The split and hem are also bound. All the binding was finished by hand to the accompaniment of the BBC Narnia series. My whipstitch has really sped up over this project. The beading along the hem is a combination of moonstone and lava beads (I think that means pumice).

There's a bit of infrastructure inside the skirt – somewhere to hook the skirt up to so it drapes nicely and somewhere to loop the lacing cord ends so they don't trip me when they are pulled tight for closure (it really does need to be that long). 

I sewed in rouleaux strips for lacing and made a modesty panel with some boning along the top to ensure it sits straight. The lacing is pink because range of purple ribbon at Spotlight is sorely wanting.

Accessories
To go with the outfit I made a moonstone and gold chain headpiece, a belt and bead-tasselled loop to tie it together. The bead medallions are made according to this tutorial. I had so much fun making them that I kept going, using up a chunk of the bead stash to make little gifts.

The arm cuffs are 2 layers of satin and the slashes are completely hand-edged with teeny-tiny stitches.  

And finally, I must express a heartfelt thanks to the local Noni B for timing its liquidation sale for when I was looking for a display form. The Canberra Show no longer makes any available and I could not find a dress form small enough to fit my dress over its shoulders. Now I own [and have to find somewhere to keep] my very own store mannequin with removable arms.

In the Forests of Serre by Kinuko Y. Craft.

Canberra Show Results

Another Canberra Show has been and gone. I only entered 3 things this year as there was no historical or costume category (much sadness). Hopefully they will be back next year.

I won first in Any other article of machine or hand sewing with my 1830s dress and corded petticoat. The ensemble also won overall champion of the Sewing section.

My 40s dress with piped tucks took first in Winter/Summer Garment.

This year I ventured out of the Sewing section (into Textiles) with my 1830s bonnet which I entered in the Any wearable hat/creative headpiece/fascinator class. It won second place.

Canberra Show-off

Just a quick report from this year's Canberra show.

I entered my Assassin's Creed II costume in the Performance Costume category (sadly the only entry) and Elizabeth in the Summer/Winter Garment section.

I won firsts for both outfits. I got some nice comments from the judges about Elizabeth, complimenting my pintucks but also recommending that I user a neater finishing technique on the inside; this is something I will work on.

My assassin won overall champion of Non-professional with more than Two Years Experience entries.

Canberra Show Report

The Canberra Show happened last weekend and I entered as many sewing categories as I could.

On the Wednesday before, I got a rather exciting phone call to say I had won Overall Champion of the sewing section.

The costume that won was Eowyn, (construction posts here) entered in the 'Performance Costume' section. I was particularly pleased that this outfit was chosen as, while making it, I had begun to think my skills would never be good enough to do what I wanted. It was so nice to have other people judge that it was good enough.

I was invited to attend the opening of the Craft Exhibition to receive my prize which turned out to be a sewing machine and an over-locker, both Toyotas. Disturbingly, our two sewing machines have recently turned into five. I don't quite know what to think about that. I am excited to try an over-locker now. I also received a couple of Needlewitch vouchers which I will put to good use.

The special theme category this year was 'Retro'. This was very convenient given my sudden need to make 40s dresses at the end of last year. I won this category with my teal and peacock dress.

I also picked up a few other ribbons. In 'Any other article of machine or hand sewing' I won second place with my Viking costume.

I got second place in the 'Bustier' category with my black waist.

I entered my Regency Spencer in 'Winter/Summer Garments' and got second place.

My mum entered the sewing section for the first time this year and received second place in children's wear.

As you can see in the first photo, I wore another of my 40s dresses to the opening on Friday. I think my favourite thing about the day was the response it got. Several older ladies came up to me and told me it was just like a dress they used to have or had made. I was so pleased to hear that I had managed to make a historical dress that was recognisable to people who were there at the time. (This is not to say that winning Champion wasn't also great – I got the phone call on Wednesday, so it had been my favourite thing on that day. And also on Thursday.)