Dyes, dyed, will dye

I am working on Elizabeth’s first outfit from Bioshock Infinite – my post about the shirt is here.

To make Elizabeth’s skirt I modified Simplicity 2442 which has a six-gore skirt with a high waistline. I must have got something mixed up in the mock up stages because nothing that was meant to be symmetrical really is and pattern gores that were meant to be the same size aren’t and I’ve got no idea what’s going on with it anymore except that it fits and hangs really nicely. So I didn’t try to fix it.

I decided to use pintucks instead of large pleats because free pleats made of fabric just don’t look like the controlled pixels of the garment in the game. I added the pleats to the pattern by inserting lots of folded strips and then opening them out.

The fabric I’m using was labelled as gabardine and sold as denim. I’m not sure which it is or if it’s something else entirely. It has a lovely texture, both tactiley and visually. I didn’t find a darker fabric that matched so I decided to paint the dark border. I also thought painting would make the whole process easier and neater as it meant not having to line up all those seams. The fabric paint I usually use either doesn’t come in dark blue or no-one feels the need to stock it – so, based on the advice of the sales assistant at the craft store, I bought screen printing ink. That sales assistant will have my eternal gratitude – the ink is exactly the right colour, easy to use and easy to fix mistakes.

I had a minor disaster when I decided to give a second coat to part of the border that had come out a bit patchy. When it dried it was a lot darker than the panel next to it (and had started looking more purple), had some shiny splodges and had a very distinct line where the second coat had stopped. Luckily, before the dye has been heat set, it sponges off well and I was able to repaint the problematic portion. There is still a little shadowing at the edges but it’s not something you would notice if not looking for it. Phew.

The hem has a white ruffle, sewn in with twin needling along the border line.  The skirt closes with clips. I dyed some more fabric for the tabs over the pleats.

Bioshock Infinite belongs to Take-Two Interactive Software

Sews, sewed, will sew

When I played Bioshock Infinite I was quite taken by the character of Elizabeth, so I started looking into making her first outfit. While the basic design is the white shirt and six-gore skirt that was popular during the Edwardian era, the silhouette is very different – much more fitted. In fact, it was fitted in a way that only animated fabric can be. After deciding that neither I nor my mother knew how to create an appropriate pattern I booked some private lessons at Needlewitch.

At those lessons I learnt various techniques for adjusting patterns to fit my figure, how to add pintucks, and that a real fabric blouse couldn’t have the right fit without a bust dart. The fabric I used was stretch poplin which, while not historically accurate (the game is set in 1912), behaves and looks like the fabric in the game. And really, I don’t need to be too worried about historical or technological accuracy in a game where they have invented flying cities and Elizabeth can open portals through time.

After several mock-ups (with the guidance of my sewing teacher) I got a satisfactory pattern.

 I never want to sew pintucks again, but they did turn out lovely.

The technique I found very helpful was to sew a straight line down where the inside crease will be and then iron all the pleats using the stitching as a guide for the folds. The stitching makes everything very sturdy and holds it all in place. The pleats are then topstitched down (’cause they look weird if they are allowed to accordion around by themselves.) I used a blind stitch foot for the topstitching, which is wrong, but allows for a very smooth line just close enough to the edge.

Finding a suitable bias binding turned out to be difficult. No shops in Canberra seem to think you might need that colour in wide. The one I ended up getting was not as opaque as I would have liked.

I had to learn how to do a sleeve placket for the cuffs. This instructional video was very useful. Mine are not completely neat but are fine for a beginner.

In the game, the sleeves of Elizabeth’s outfit change length depending on whether she has the cuffs done up or turned back. I am going for the turned back look so have three-quarter sleeves and will leave off the buttons.
I haven’t done the buttons on the front yet because buttonholes are scary and there will be lots of them.

Also missing is something to secure the back pleats at the waist but that needs to be done after the buttons.

The outfit will be worn over my Edwardian corset. I really ought to make a new petticoat – I don’t have anything in Edwardian style – but I haven’t put a lot of thought into that and I have earlier ones that will work fine for the moment.

I referred to Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques while making this outfit. While the outfit is not very historical, I did find a few historical techniques in the book that I could use: I used French seams and swapped my normal hemming stitch for the one described in the book. The new stitch is so much neater than what I always did before that I think I will keep on using it.




Bioshock Infinite belongs to Take-Two Interactive Software