A very productive week

Over the last week I made three tops and a skirt.

Saturday before last I went to Spotlight and while I was generally disappointed by their lack of nice fabric, especially in my price range, I did find a few things that I liked. Apparently grey is very 'in' for me this season.

First to get cut was a grey, hot pink and lime floral jersey – a sale table find. I used this to make McCalls 6608 view D, which turned out to be a really lovely skirt. I mostly left the pattern alone except for the waistband. Rather than using the folded over rectangle I used the shaped waistband from the woven skirt (views A, B and C) to have a more fitted shape. Instead of threading the elastic through after everything was sewn together I slid the elastic into the detached waistband and used the zipper foot to make a very closely fitted channel. I then ditch-stitched through the elastic on the side seams. I don't think the line through the waistband looks too bad and it is certainly the most comfortable elasticised waistband I've met.

After making the skirt I had a metre of fabric left over (plus a few patches from in between skirt pieces) so I decided to do a trial run of Vogue 8323 view A. Finally! I started laying the patterns on Sunday morning and by bedtime had everything done (skirt and shirt) bar the hemming. The jersey is a bit too jelly* for this top and the neckline flopped open way too low but once stitched in place I think it turned out well enough. And I'm not going to complain about a wearable mockup made from leftovers.

I hemmed the skirt during the week and on Saturday was ready to finish the top and begin another. View B this time. The pattern recommended 1.2 metres and there was 1.15 on the roll. So close to perfect... The only problem was that the pattern was for 3/4 sleeves whereas I wanted full length ones. 'Twas an easy fix. There was just, only just, enough leftover fabric for two cuffs (cut with the stretch in the wrong direction).

The fabric has a lovely subtle sparkle to it.

The collar does take a bit of convincing to sit in a non-weird way but I really like the top.

I finished the light grey shirt by mid afternoon. I think that's the first time I've taken a garment from fabric to finished in one sitting. I've expected it to happen before but something always comes up (that and I’m really bad at estimating how long sewing takes). Turns out there’s something to be said for using one fabric, a pattern as is, and no detailed embroidery or painting or hand-hemming. Working with knits also cuts out a bunch of time consuming steps that wovens require.

On Sunday evening I decided to lay out the pattern for another top. Once that was done I realised that it was only 7.30, not 10pm as I'd thought, so I cut it out then. And then I sewed it up too, because, you know, it's nice to get things out of the way. The top turned out really nicely. This fabric was actually sturdy enough to support the neckline.

Unlike the first two shirts I made from this pattern I used the sewing machine instead of the overlocker. I was much more comfortable with this and felt a lot more in control – I could always tell how wide I was making the seam allowance. (Although in a postscript to my overlocker thoughts my mum has decided that they're wonderful and the overlocker ought to be set up all the time. We just need to find the space.)

* Means slinky, wobbly, difficult fabric. Technical term. At least, it is in my house.

A Lockwork Purple

Over the last few weeks I have been getting to know the overlocker I won at the Canberra Show. I did the overlocker basics class at Needlewitch followed swiftly by the performance costume class (which used an overlocker). Then I set up the overlocker at home to make something by myself.

Overlocked leotard from the performance costume class - mine is actually swimming togs.

I looked through my patterns for a project that would be appropriate for an overlocker. I've wanted to make Vogue 8323 for ages but never had enough fabric in the stash for view A, nor could I find something I liked in the shops. But I had just enough shiny purple left over from my Misery costume to make view C which would test whether the fit was right.

At first I planned to line the shirt to make it a bit warmer and because I anticipated the fabric would be uncomfortable against my skin. I made the lining first and it fitted reasonably loosely but my outer fabric was less stretchy and the fit more snug. I decided to make the lining into a second top. It's a bit thin but will be good for layering.

I don't like how the sleeve inset on the purple turned out, but I think that has got more to do with me not knowing how to construct stretch garments than any fault of the overlocker. I'm making more and more of my everyday clothes as well as costumes and that means more stretch clothes so I'm going to need to improve my skills. The sleeves on the black shirt worked fine. The neckline and wrists of the purple shirt are finished with topstitched foldover elastic. I edged the black shirt with rolled hems. The first cuff worked well but the second cuff and hem both have some missed spots. I went over them again but I'm not sure how to solve the problem neatly.

My overlocker is a Toyota SLR4D which I'm told is a good one but at this point I have no way to judge that myself. When I finished the second shirt I packed the machine away and I'm not sure it will be brought out again soon. I have a couple of stretch projects planned but the thing that always put me off overlockers was the permanent cutting of fabric and that still bothers me. The purple shirt is a close fit and I wasn't able to redo the sleeves for a better fit because too much of the seam had already been trimmed away. Also, I can't leave the overlocker set up ready for use because the sewing room is already full with sewing machines.