2015 Review

2015 began with a spur-of-the-moment Eowyn costume that turned into a crisis of collar-design and a drawn-out quest for The Right Trim. I said in an earlier post that I had been to every sewing shop in the ACT, but I have since discovered this was a gross slander of Needlewitch which I hadn't heard of then and which did have something that would have worked.

For the Jane Austen Festival I wanted to make a couple of evening gowns but I found myself in need of a new pair of stays which dashed my plans to be ready early this year. I managed to get my Joker-inspired regency dress wearable for the ball and finished it afterwards. At JAFA I did an 1806 bonnet class where I made a Polish Casquette (using a Lynn McMasters Pattern). Later in the year I made a spencer which is now ready early for next year.

 I made a pair of pyjama pants (Kwik Sew 3882) as part of sewing lessons.

I played through the Bioshock series of video games this year which I loved. This inadvertently solved my “I can’t find any clothes I like in the shop” problem as I suddenly wanted to wear 1940s style dresses - and these proved surprisingly simple to make. I created a pattern with a number of variations and kept making new dresses. I was glad to have simple, quick projects as I spent the last half of the semester alternating between being sick and madly trying to catch up on uni and I needed something to relax with. Most of these dresses happened between 9pm and 3am at the point where if I didn't sew something I would go mad. Here are the individual blog posts: maroon, light blue, navy blue and teal.

Finally, here is the progress on my Bayeux tapestry dress. This year I finished the Church and these horses. Filling in the horses takes so much thread (and time).

In non-sewing news: I am finally finished with Uni! This year I completed a double degree in History and IT. (All together now: "That's an interesting combination!")

This is my tenth year of making costumes. And having come as far as I think I can under my own tutelage I started having lessons and they've been great. I now press and finish seams better; I use notches; I use a whole variety of new and different tools; I know how to treat my sewing machine better...

Speaking of sewing machines: I got a new one this year. My 1976 Husqvarna 2000, inherited from my Great Aunt, finally gave out after a long and full life. I now have a Brother NV610 which, so far, I am pleased with.

There were other changes to my sewing arrangements this year. We rearranged the house a bit so I now have a sewing-only sewing room far enough away from everyone else that I can sew late into the night whenever the insomnia takes me. We reorganised the pattern stash to be more accessible. My mum and I swapped sewing cabinets too. So basically my sewing setup now is all of the new. And I got a garment steamer. I love my garment steamer.

This was a year of plans that did not eventuate, starting with Eowyn taking two months longer than it was meant to. I was not planning to be sick all the time either. It wasn't anything serious but the time-out being sick followed by catching up on study really threw the last five months for me. There were several months this year which I pretty much slept through. When I finally had a chance to look seriously at the hardware for my Assassin's Creed costume I found that the method I was expecting to use wouldn't work. I had been planning to use draw slides for the hidden blades but the only ones I could find were nearly as big as my wrist and really heavy.  And finally, I posted a list of my future plans of which I have worked on exactly none. (Usually I don't publish 'goal lists' because I know how many dresses I think about and don't make.) Of course, I immediately went off and made four other dresses not on the list. All or none of my plans may be realised next year.

A moving story

When I was working on my 1940s dresses  I did a lot of the work in the small hours of the morning. This was not so well received because the noise disturbed the other occupants of the house who for some reason like to sleep then. This prompted a decision to move the sewing room post-haste.

We decided to get rid of the table. I think its intended purpose was for cutting out patterns on but its actual use was mostly to have things put on it or under it. It wasn’t a good height for sewing work and I now have a glass table to use for tracing so I mostly use that if I need a table. The sewing room also doubled [tripled] as a dressing room (which meant I couldn’t store things in the built in wardrobe) and an art room. One of the sewing cupboards lived in the spare bedroom which meant a trip down the hallway whenever buttons or zips or patterns were needed. (Most of the patterns made it to the sewing room earlier in the year but not all of them.)

Mum is an experienced house rearranger so she made up a floor plan with movable furniture and we experimented with possible solutions before embarking on the big move.

First, the table went. It had a good life but some of the veneer had snapped recently and its usefulness was limited.

The spare bedroom was a very crowded room. As well as the bed and desk it stored my costumes and a sewing tools cupboard that didn't fit in the sewing room. The new spare bedroom is a larger room which gives guests more space to move. My bonnets and hats are displayed on the shelves and my costumes now have covers to protect them from dust and light.

The sewing room is now ONLY for sewing. THIS IS SO EXCITING. Let’s tour...

My sewing cabinet and dress form.

The stand the dress is hanging from used to support a birdcage but turns out to make an excellent hanging rack for garments in-progress or being steamed.

The ironing stand holds the iron (duh), ironing ham, sleeve roll, pressing cloth, ironing spray and garment steamer. The steamer was a birthday present and I love it. Haven’t ironed a thing since (I have pressed a lot of seams though).

Next are the notions drawers, scrap fabric boxes and mum’s sewing cabinet. We don’t sew at the same time as much as we’d like but I think we have a better chance of both fitting in the same room now. The drawers used to be behind the open door of my sewing cabinet meaning I couldn’t easily access things while I was sewing so I’m very pleased it’s been shifted.

The brown cupboard has more notions and tools. There’s a nook for in-progress projects bags next to the pattern boxes. Having the boxes stacked on top of each other is not as convenient as lining them up on a table but they are small enough to not be too hard to access. Finally, the fabric cupboard. I would like to do some stashbusting over summer (ha ha, ha) so I can fill this cupboard with a stash of useful lengths. I often want to ‘make something now’ but don’t have enough of any particular fabric.

The new room is great. No more worrying about keeping people awake; no more having to share the space for other uses; less sun in the heat of the afternoon. I don't know why we didn't think of this sooner.

Middle [school] ages

In a year 9 history elective my class decided to have a medieval lunch. Due to my internet-ly wanderings at that time I had just discovered the concept of ‘historical accuracy’. I decided I wanted an accurate costume and couldn’t possibly wear the supposedly ‘medieval’ hot pink satin ‘frog princess’ costume my mother had previously made for me to wear to a birthday party.

Frog Princess

So I sought out a pattern for a sideless surcoat outfit (Burda 7977), bought some cotton poplin and embarked on the project. At the time it seemed like such a huge project. I had a week to make it – but it was a week when we were out every night.  Fortunately it’s not a complex outfit and I was able to follow the pattern as is (a very rare occurrence). Only the godets caused some grief. Godets were a new concept at the time for both myself and my mum and I had to redo them several times. Now I know to sew them differently from the pattern instructions (one should attach godets before sewing the side seams).

The outfit was ready to wear on the day, albeit unhemmed; Mum made the hat while I was at school and dropped it off just before lunch. 

This was my first attempt at a deliberate, accurate costume and I have never looked back.

This costume has since been worn to birthday parties and medieval festivals and has been a visual aid in class presentations. I’ve grown so used to it that it has migrated out of my costume wardrobe to be mixed-and-matched with my everyday wardrobe. 

Of course this is perfectly normal uni wear.  What do you mean it’s 700 years out of fashion?

I have since accumulated quite a collection of early medieval cotton garments. I made outfits for the doctor and lady-in-waiting for a scene from Macbeth in English class (I do that). These are both essentially lengthened t-shirts. I tried to use trims that looked like weaving if you squinted at them from a distance, and the one on the brown robe kind-of does. Lady Macbeth wore the cream dress (above) without the surcoat.

More recently I used the Burda 7977 pattern to make an everyday dress. I adapted the sleeve pattern into bell sleeves and I was very happy with how they turned out. This pattern has surprisingly agreeable sleeves and I use them when I have to add long sleeves to other patterns.

Origin story

This year marks 10 years since I started costuming.

The story actually starts a bit earlier, when I was about 3. My mum used to sew a lot of clothes for me so I was very familiar with the sewing machine. I was allowed to use it (electricity off – handwheel only) and I set out to make an "Indian costume".

So I suppose this was actually my first costume.

Around the same age I requested a purple dress 'down to the ground'. The dress did have to be taken up a little because I kept tripping on it, but it was The Beginning.

Extravagance!

I played dress-up a lot as a child, haunting second hand shops for interesting clothes. Star Wars was a particularly popular subject. Somehow, my later choice of costuming as a hobby still managed to take all of us by surprise.

Princess Leia you can probably recognise, the other is Sabé from The Phantom Menace.
I have not sewn a Star Wars costume yet. I don't know why this is.

I did a little bit of embroidery when I was 11 but mostly sewing remained mum’s domain until I was 12 and discovered that the sewing machine could be turned on. It had a light! And it could go fast! I made some clothes for my favourite soft toy and then started on cushions. That was a mistake; lots of cushions take up far too much space.

Some of the cushions I made.

In 2005 my best friend had a dress up party for her 14th birthday. I decided I wanted to make a flapper costume. Mum did most of the work to develop the pattern and cut the material but I sewed all the seams myself. Mum hand-sewed the feather boa on in the office of an osteopath (I had an appointment before the party) where it left a lot of feathers. I got changed there and walked out in costume.

I started spending a lot of time on the costuming part of the internet and discovered, mostly through Koshka-the-cat and her connections, that 'costuming' was an actual thing that people did.

The next few years had multiple dress-up events that I wanted to do properly and while I was turning school assignments into dresses I found that sewing was a thing I really enjoyed. Instead of sewing in order to get clothes I wanted, my focus has long been making clothes that I want to sew. I really enjoy the challenge and learning opportunities from this hobby. My "genre" of focus has changed a lot over the time I’ve been sewing: historical, fictional, original designs, corsetry, 'real clothes'... There’s always something new and interesting to explore.

In Raptures over vintage clothes

The fabric I used for my first 40s dress was really lovely so when I found it in a different colour and print I bought enough to make another dress. This time I decided to complement the patterned fabric with a plain fabric for the waistband and cuffs and a contrast piping. I also adapted the dress design to have a peaked waistband and the bodice gathered into a yoke, rather than the shoulder seam.

The too-short zip problem is solved by having a V-shaped back neckline.

Since the waistband on this dress was clearly visible, I had to make sure both sides matched up at the zip.

The waistband peak is topstitched by hand. I was trying to use backstitch, but I think it came out as some kind of elongated stem stitch. The hand stitching adds a nice texture, I think.

This pattern is proving dependable and adaptable. I have one more version currently half made but no more planned. These dresses go together very quickly which is gratifying but I’ve finished uni now so it’s time to tackle more complex projects. I am very glad to be going into summer with a wardrobe that, when I wake up thinking ‘I want to look like Bioshock today’, can now supply me with something appropriate.

All good girls gather dresses

I really like the 40s style dress I made recently, so I patterned up a few different bodice designs and started making more.

A few weeks ago I posted about my planned projects for the rest of the year. That plan did not include a handful of 40s dresses. But it’s exam time, so I needed some simple projects for study breaks. And I’m not over Bioshock yet.

I overlooked this fabric in the stash last time I searched because I didn’t think there was sufficient of it for anything I would make but turns out there was just enough for this dress.

The darts give just the right shape.

I added darts at the waist and shoulder, placed very wrongly I’m sure, and changed the neckline to take a Peter Pan collar I filched from an 80s dress pattern. I also put side seams in the waistband to make it more fitted. I couldn’t find a fabric I liked for piping so I left these cuffs unpiped, just to be different.

I really liked the method of pleating I used for the sleeves, although I think the pleats probably should be brought forward a bit more. The pattern said to use a gathering thread but I always find that gathering gives you very uneven sleeves – not only because it is hard to gather evenly but always having fabric on the left of the sewing machine means one sleeve’s gathers are pushed to the front while the other’s are pushed to the back.

I am not happy with the invisible zip. On my old sewing machine I could get close enough to the fold of the zip for it to actually be hidden. The foot on my new machine keeps the needle further away (admittedly saving a few broken needles) but results in an ugly zip line down the back of the dress. It’s thinner than an exposed zip but really! I use invisible zips to avoid this. I had to leave a gap between the top of the zip and the neckline because I couldn’t find any invisible zips that were long enough.

That zip is not invisible!

I made this dress after a really hectic day at work – a good day but so busy! So I came home and made a dress to unwind. By the time I went to bed all it needed was hemming. The dress turned out really nicely. I used a lot of new techniques and equipment that I learnt about at the sewing classes I took a few weeks ago (I love my sleeve roll and tailor’s ham) and I think the quality of my sewing has definitely improved. The finishing let me down however, because the beginner course didn’t cover things like collars or zips, so they are still done in my made up way which is functional but not neat.

We all make choices, but in the end our choices make us make clothes

With sewing lessons booked, I decided to put all sewing projects on hold until I had completed the lessons but halfway through the course I couldn’t bear it any more. So on a Friday night, after having handed in a uni assignment during the day, I decided I must have a new dress now and started scouring the pattern boxes and the stash.

I wanted something 1940s style, particularly in the vein of this dress:

Source

My sudden interest in 1940s dresses came about because for the last few months I have been playing through the Bioshock series of video games. The first two games are set in the 60s but in a city that isolated itself from the rest of the world in the 40s, so the styling of the place is more reminiscent of the earlier time. Fiction I consume tends to make it to my wardrobe almost as fast as it gets to my brain, so after a few hours of starting at a computer game full of 40s clothes I began staring at my cupboard wondering why there weren’t any there. I wanted some 40s-style dresses of an everyday, utilitarian kind, which is bizarre because I am usually all about the extravagant.

My pattern search turned up very little that was useful but I did find a 1970s bias cut 4-gore skirt pattern that was nice and picked one of the blouse patterns fairly arbitrarily – probably for the sake of the sleeves. The drawings on the front make it look alright but it really is horribly sack-like.

I spent the evening making a mock-up and adapting the pattern. In the bodice, I added pleats to the waist, gathers to the shoulder seams, changed the neckline and swapped the button up front for a zip in the back. I also made the back more fitted by tracing from this tunic which fits me very nicely.

This meant adding fabric in the shoulder area and losing a fair bit in the waist. The changes were all done by draping the mock-up which I then took apart and traced back onto the pattern. I have since been assured that this is very much The Wrong Way to do things and that centre back seams should be straight. This is why I’m having lessons. That said, it still worked although perhaps doesn’t sit as nicely as it could. The skirt I left as it was except that for the waistband I just cut a strip of fabric to my measurements and gathered the back skirts and bodice to fit it (they didn’t need to be gathered much). By 1.30am I had a mock-up I was happy with.

On Saturday, after spending the morning doing assignments, I bought fabric, washed fabric and cut fabric. The fabric I got is a printed homespun. It has a much nicer texture than other ‘homespun’ fabric I have used – I think it might be brushed. It also didn’t crinkle after washing which is very pleasing.

I sewed Saturday night and Sunday Morning but was foiled in my attempts to finish the dress on the weekend by lack of an invisible zipper foot for my new machine. I bought one on Monday and finished the dress. I had a false start with the hem because I decided to be different and actually look at the pattern instructions which recommended a 1¼" turn up finished with bias. I did this and it looked awful. So I have redone it with my usual method of a small double fold hemmed by hand.

I like this dress. So do other people, apparently – it’s done fairly well in the random compliment stakes. And someone took one look at me and said "40s dress" so I think I succeeded stylistically. Another time I would put side seams in the waistband to give it shape but otherwise I would leave it largely as is. Of course, when I make this style of dress again I will probably adjust other things for variety but I am very happy with this dress.

Anniversary thoughts

I have now, as of September, been costuming for 10 years. At the start of the year, when I finished my Eowyn costume, I found myself reassessing my hobby. The last few things I’ve made I have been really happy with and proud of what I’ve achieved but they still weren’t as good as I wanted. I am aware that nothing ever will be – but, while over the last 10 years I’ve watched my standard of work constantly improve, at the beginning of this year it seemed to have plateaued.

I’ve felt a need to ‘level up’ my sewing before. At the first Jane Austen festival I went to I was inspired by the quality of the other costumer’s work, including these two bloggers. After that I started doing little things, like pressing seams during construction, which add so much to the final look of a garment and my quality of work improved significantly in that period.

One of my favourite things about costuming is the constant learning. With every costume you have to acquire new skills and improve your techniques. But at the start of this year it seemed to me that I was no longer doing that. My work was good but I consistently had fitting problems. I was also taking too much time and too many mock-ups to create a pattern through a guess and check method. I was sure there were better ways to do things but I seemed to have reached the limit of what I could teach myself. “I’ll just have to give it up” I thought to myself. I don’t think I ever seriously considered that – I love sewing too much – but I needed to find away to continue to improve.

These are my planned projects (subject to change at any time, etc) that I’m excited to keep improving my skills with:

At the same time, people were beginning to ask me to give them lessons or make costumes for them. Lessons were a bit awkward because while I definitely can sew I don’t have any verified techniques or knowledge to pass on. Commissioned work also posed a problem because while I didn’t want to work for free I also wasn’t comfortable with charging by the hour when I was using techniques that were inefficient timewise. I also didn’t want to charge a lot for work that wasn’t finished in a professional manner. Which, given the time cost to me that a commission represents, made significant projects for others not something I could do.

I have not done any sewing for a few months. But this is not despair – it is hope! In July I enrolled in sewing lessons but they didn’t start until the end of September so I decided to put off all projects until after the lessons so that I could use my new skills to make my costumes as good as possible. (It was also really convenient – I spent that time either being sick or desperately trying to catch up on uni because I had been sick, and benefited from not having my brain trying to figure out a sewing project as well.)

I have been excitedly looking forward to the course since I enrolled, greatly confusing everyone I told about it who all looked weirdly at me and said ‘but you can already sew’. But I knew I would learn better, more effective ways to sew and I couldn’t wait. I am starting in the beginner class but that doesn’t mean it’s all easy or just going over things I know. It’s ‘beginner’ - not as in simplified but as in these are the proper, professional foundational techniques that you need to know first, before you learn the other ones. I’m nearly finished the first class in the series and I have learned so much. I’ve also bought so much – the first lesson was on useful tools.

Loot!