Burda 2484

While making Misery, I found I liked Burda 2484 very much, so I used it to make another couple of dresses for everyday wear.

One is made out of a lovely blue brocade. For it, I did away with the train and made more practical sleeves. Because it is a winter dress, and wide sleeves wouldn’t be very warm, I made a matching pair of cuffs. I put some same-colour braid in the front of the dress and round the sleeves. This dress is incredibly comfortable.

 This summer dress was a bit more difficult. We’ve had the fabric for years, so it was nice to finally use it, but it was very difficult to work with. It behaves like jelly and pulls all over the place, but after a few re-workings I got it to fit. For this dress I modified the train from the pattern to make a medium-length skirt that was longer at the back. When I was fitting the dress for Misery I had noticed that the back bodice fell into a nice lapel sort of shape so I incorporated back lapels into the summer dress. The last step for this outfit was finding the hot pink stockings, which proved to be quite a challenge.

  

Misery

Ruby Gloom is a children’s cartoon that I am unreasonably fond of. My favourite character is Misery who is basically a living bad luck charm, constantly being hit by lightning and the like. I had no occasion to wear a Misery costume but I wanted to make one, so I used the lack of deadline to take my time and make it as good as I wanted it to be. It was also an interesting exercise in interpreting a costume design from 2D animation: the character does not have human proportions, animated fabric doesn’t have to behave like real fabric, and details (like sleeve length) vary between shots.

I decided I wanted to make a costume that looked more like a realistic outfit rather than keep to an animated texture. I was going to do this by adding beading and embroidery, but after I had done the embroidery I thought it was enough. This outfit is Misery’s house dress so it probably wouldn’t be too fancy. The show has a goth-y aesthetic so I did some research of goth fashion before I started my design. I’m not sure that I used anything I found in particular, but it was useful information to keep in the back of my mind.

Bodice adapted from Simplicity 2172

Misery is associated with a spider motif so I embroidered a spiderweb pattern over the bodice. I’ve always liked the look of the non-spiral webs that we get in the backyard so I used a photo of one for my embroidery pattern. To transfer the design to the corset I used an overhead projector to shine the photo on the bodice and traced it on. The web is embroidered using chain stitch and iridescent thread the same colour as the satin. The embroidery alone (without beading) broke up the colour blocking and was subtle enough to add an extra layer of feature to the outfit without deviating too far from the original design.

For Misery’s dress I used the pattern Burda 2484. Because the neck and skirt of Misery’s dress are a different colour from the sleeves I changed the pattern so that the side pieces went all the way to the shoulder line rather than the armhole. That way any visible shoulder fabric would be the same as the sleeves. Finding complementary purples was difficult, but Patchwork On Parker in Cootamundra had the perfect stuff.

Misery wears a spider brooch at her throat – I made mine out of Sculpey.

The neck piece was a lot of work. After I made a couple of failed patterns, my mum draped fabric around my neck to make a pattern. (Draping a pattern on your own neck is difficult!) Misery’s collar has ribbing or some other vertically striped texture. I used flat-felled seams to get the effect.

After much experimentation I came to the conclusion that my real chiffon was never going to drape as well as the animated stuff. To get the right shape I cut the shape of the drapery into the chiffon. To finish the edges of the veil I melted it over a candle. This meant there was no bulky hem (and it seemed appropriate for a character who was always being singed). The flowers are just decorative; the veil is held in place by a comb. I bought 3m of chiffon so that I would have some room to experiment but ended up using all of it.

I am very happy with the finished result. 

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