Monday 26 January 2015

"I can ride and wield blade"

The bodice of Eowyn’s riding outfit is made of a green fabric and quilted with gold thread. The bodice has gold buttons down the centre front and smaller gold buttons from wrist to elbow on the sleeves.  The bodice quilting is invisible on the DVD version of the film, but a glimpse of it can be seen at the bottom edge of the following photo:
  A rare in-focus glimpse of this costume.
The cowl and lower edge of the bodice are trimmed with a floral tape. The cowl and sleeves appear to be brown velvet, and the sleeves have a gold floral pattern.  
I made my bodice out of green twill, thin wadding and lined with the leftovers from my 1879 gown. This fabric was ideal for the lining because it has a diamond pattern that I used as a guide for the quilting.
I based my pattern on Vogue 8323 (which is a knit pattern, but it worked). I adapted it to open at the centre front with an overlapped opening. The bodice closes with clips – I had no interest in sewing a dozen buttonholes through all those layers of fabric and wadding.

I sewed each layer of the bodice together separately before layering and quilting. To avoid having bulky seams on the wadding layer I cut the pieces out without seam allowances and zigzagged them together with the edges meeting.
 There was a lot of quilting and it took several days to do it all.
I need to thank my mother for letting me use her sewing machine for this project. My sewing machine was exhausted by the end of last year and is currently having a well deserved holiday at the sewing machine servicing place. This outfit has been entirely sewn on my mother’s Janome, which was the machine I learned to sew on.

My sleeves and cowl will be made from a stretch panne velvet; the sort of fabric I would usually cringe to use. However it looked just right for this costume, was available and affordable, and this particular one has been much easier to use than panne velvets I have used in the past. I added the gold decoration to the sleeves with fabric paint – the leaves are stamped and the flowers were painted freehand.
I want to report that I managed to put both sleeves in properly first time :-). 
I have been unable to find the floral trim for this outfit. I have searched every fabric shop I know of in Canberra, a few interstate, and etsy. I even went to The Other Side of Town (for non-Canberrans: that’ a half-hour drive away and is considered a day-trip, made once a year at most).
Have you seen this trim?
Here is the bodice in its current state:



The Lord of the Rings images belong to New Line Cinema.

Saturday 24 January 2015

New year, new project

Eowyn from Lord of the Rings is one of my favourite fictional characters and I have been wanting to make one of her costumes for years. At the end of last year I decided on a whim that it was time to make one. I particularly like her ‘victory gown’ and her ‘riding outfit’. Both are in The Return of the King but only for fleeting headshots.

I have been on the lookout for some brocades for the victory gown for a while but never found anything so I decided to make the riding outfit.

As far as I know, there is only one full length picture of this outfit in existence:
Found here.
These online resources suggest that the skirt is split in front and worn with trousers, or possibly it is trousers that look like a skirt. I decided to go with the front split as that was also used for Eowyn’s ‘refugee’ underdress.
For the skirt I found a lovely grey satin in Cootamundra (Patchwork on Parker is an amazing shop! They don’t have a lot of dressmaking fabric, but almost always have exactly what I need) and I plan to wear it with the brown trousers from my assassin costume
I used an old 4-panel skirt pattern (for some reason we have multiple 1980s 4-panel skirt patterns) and attached the skirt, gathered in the back, to a rectangular waistband. The peak at the centre front comes from cutting the ends of the rectangle diagonally (making it actually a trapezium) to fit my waist properly. The skirt does up by being laced through 4 hand bound eyelets on the band.

Now, on to the bodice...



The Lord of the Rings images belong to New Line Cinema.

Tuesday 6 January 2015

2014 Review

In 2014 I made:

Lucy from The Voyage of the Dawn Treader.
A fantasy gown.
  A Viking outfit.
Ezio’s outfit from Assassin’s Creed II.
Ezio’s outfit from Assassin’s Creed: Brotherhood.
Ezio’s outfit from Assassin’s Creed: Revelations.

A cotton petticoat (not pictured).

* * * * *

In the past year I discovered Dorset buttons which I first made for Lucy and then for my AC II costume.
These buttons are inexpensive, light, flat and soft which makes them very useful. The downside is that they take 40 minutes to an hour each to make, but for these costumes I found that manageable.

I used bleach on fabric for the first time ever to decorate the AC: Revelations costume and was very pleased with the outcome. I also discovered the usefulness of string as part of the trimming toolkit.
With the Lucy and Assassin costumes I started to come to terms with myself about not always needing everything to be screen accurate. I’ve often observed that the overall impact of a garment is more important than whether the small details are right but that doesn’t stop me getting worked up about them. However I managed to be satisfied with having the Lucy outfit and the AC II outfit trimmed with a gold pattern rather than trimmed with a screen-identical gold pattern.
 
These are not the same.

Very few people other than me will notice, and if I had adapted or hand-done something for the sake of accuracy but of poorer quality, that would have been noticeable.

While attempting an accurate trim on the AC II outfit I discovered my limits in the field of handsewing which might, if I am very sensible, help me to make more realistic decisions about future garments. I ended up painting the motifs and using braid instead.
While I didn’t develop many new skills making the Assassin outfits I still learned a lot from them. I had to solve many challenges with regard to patterning, fitting, historicity, accuracy and construction, and went through the process with a lot of doubt as to how they would turn out. Happily, I think they eventually turned out well. Of course, in 2015 they will require me to develop a new skill-set as I try to make the armour and weaponry to go with them.

Given that I am largely self-taught and am constantly putting myself in situations where I have no idea what I’m doing, it was kind of odd to take on a mentoring role in the last year. At the beginning of the year I was asked for help by a girl from church who had never sewn before, so I walked her through making a sundress. It was a fairly complicated first project, containing darts, front/sidefront construction and a zip, and required fitting a mock-up. However, I am of the belief that it is better for a beginner to make something they want rather than something simple but dull.

I also spent some time sewing costumes with my young cousin. I have achieved my goal of corrupting the next generation! When we visited in the middle of the year I did some corsetry with her. When she visited us a few weeks ago she made this Victorian-inspired gown (McCall’s pattern 6097).
It’s not completely finished in the picture, but it's pretty good for three days work. I’m very proud of her.

Now, I’m going to stop typing because I have a new project to start.